New Release: Ulysse Nardin Freak [X Gold Enamel] Watch | aBlogtoWatch

When the Ulysse Nardin Freak X was first introduced in 2019, it was created to be a more accessible version of the brand’s flagship Freak timepiece that distilled the core DNA of the Freak into a smaller and more affordable overall package. However, the Freak X series has since expanded with more elaborate design-focused iterations, and it is no longer just the budget-friendly version of the Freak, but rather an alternative offering that is appreciated by collectors for its reduced proportions and more traditional user experience. Joining the lineup for 2025 is the Ulysse Nardin Freak [X Gold Enamel], which pairs rose gold case components with a blue flinqué enamel hour disc, and it is arguably the most elevated expression of the Freak X that the Swiss brand has put forward thus far.

Similar to other Freak X models like the Freak X OPS, the case of the Ulysse Nardin Freak [X Gold Enamel] (ref. 2305-270LE-3AE-BLUE/1A) consists of a bi-material construction, with a titanium inner section mounted within an outer framework that forms the lugs and external profile of the watch. On the new Freak [X Gold Enamel], the titanium internal section is given a dark blue PVD finish, with the winding crown and external sections of the case crafted from solid 18k rose gold. Measuring 43mm in diameter by 13.38mm thick, the case architecture follows the blueprint of other Freak X models, with sapphire crystals fitted to both the bezel and caseback, while water resistance comes in at 50 meters, and attached to the 9 o’clock side of the case is a small plaque that is engraved with each watch’s limited edition number out of 120 total examples.

One of the defining elements of Ulysse Nardin’s Freak watches is that they lack a traditional dial and hands, with the time of day instead displayed by the various components of their internal flying carousel movements. On the Freak [X Gold Enamel], the minutes are represented by a large rose gold-finished bridge with a Super-LumiNova tip, and the flying bridge makes one full rotation around the dial each hour to display its value against an elevated chapter ring that contains the hour markers and minute track. Meanwhile, the blue sunray-finished surface that serves as a backdrop for the flying carousel components isn’t actually a dial, but rather a rotating hour disc that is created using a flinqué enamel technique by Ulysse Nardin’s famous enamel dial workshop Donzé Cadrans.

Flinqué enamel dials are made by stamping a pattern into a metal dial plate and then hand-applying individual layers of enamel to build up a glossy translucent surface that enhances the underlying pattern in the metal. After each layer of enamel is added, the dial is fired in a kiln at extreme temperatures to melt the enamel particles into a solid, uniform surface, and the repeated thermal shifts can often slightly warp the metal base layer. Since the flinqué-enamel hour disc on the Ulysse Nardin Freak [X Gold Enamel] is actually a functional part of the movement that needs to operate within incredibly tight tolerances, 22k rose gold (917 gold and 83 copper) is used for its construction to ensure that the component does not deform during the numerous firings that are required to create its glossy dark blue enamel surface.

Just like other Freak X models, the Ulysse Nardin Freak [X Gold Enamel] is powered by the brand’s manufacture Caliber UN-230 automatic movement, which features a flying carousel design with its balance wheel, hairspring, and escapement all crafted from silicon. Unlike Ulysse Nardin’s flagship Freak ONE models that are set with their bezels and manually wound through their casebacks, the Freak X opts for a more traditional user interface that consists of a standard winding crown sitting on the 3 o’clock side of its case. Running at a frequency of 21,600vph (3 Hz) with a power reserve of 72 hours, the design and functionality of the Cal. UN-230 is the same across all Freak X watches, although the version fitted to the Freak [X Gold Enamel] features a rose gold rotor, matching rose-gold finishing on its flying minute bridge, and the model’s party-piece blue flinqué enamel minute disc.

The strap for the Ulysse Nardin Freak [X Gold Enamel] further reinforces the dressy intentions of the model, and fitted to its lugs is a blue alligator leather strap with rose gold-colored contrast stitching and a deployant-style buckle made from blue-finished titanium and 18k rose gold. An identical style of strap can be found on the rose gold model from the original lineup of core-collection Freak X watches, with the one difference being that this version is rendered in dark blue (rather than black). While there have been other Freak X models crafted from rose gold and others that have been fitted with enamel hour discs, the Freak [X Gold Enamel] is the first to incorporate both of these elevated details, and it immediately claims the top spot as the most premium execution of the Freak X.

Since the Freak X is a less mechanically complex expression of Ulysse Nardin’s Freak concept, it is a fundamentally more attainable offering than the brand’s flagship Freak ONE and Freak S watches. With an official retail price of $48,500 USD, the Ulysse Nardin Freak [X Gold Enamel] (ref. 2305-270LE-3AE-BLUE/1A) is easily the most expensive version of the Freak X that the Swiss brand currently offers, although even this 120-piece limited edition costs less than the most affordable Freak ONE and Freak S models. Personally, I think it is smart that Ulysse Nardin is creating more premium Freak X watches, as this elevates the series from just being the budget-friendly version of the brand’s flagship model and turns it into an alternate expression of the Freak for buyers who prefer the traditional user interface of a winding crown. For more information, please visit the Ulysse Nardin website.